Understanding what is happening to your skin is the first step towards clear skin.

Acne is triggered by hormonal changes, more specifically an increase in testosterone levels. These changes are common during puberty, use of contraceptives, stress, pre-menopause). First the testosterone is going to stimulate the sebaceous gland resulting in excess oil in your pores. Second if you have the Acne gene, the cells lining the inside of your pores multiply and shed 4 times faster than normal.

Excess oils (sebum) and dead cells get stuck under the skin surface resulting in white bump called a COMEDONE.

In the best case scenario the debris are pushed to the surface, a BLACKHEAD occurs because the oils of the pore opening oxidize with air not because the skin is dirty.

If the COMEDONE gets stuck under the skin it turns into a lovely pimple; eventually the acne bacteria that thrives in an oxygen free & oil rich environment infects the pimple into a PUSTULE and triggers a huge inflammatory response resulting in a painful CYST, acne scaring and pigmentation.

Acne in your 30’s is often due to stress, stress triggers a response from your adrenals that in turn release testosterone. Testosterone stimulates the production of oils (sebum) in the pore.

Breakouts before your periods is due to a pic in progesterone hormone, this is also why breakouts can be a side effect of estrogens pills.

You cannot wash acne away in fact over washing traps oils under the skin and messes the skin pH, creating a brewing broth for the acne bacteria.

The solution is to

1- keep the skin moist & supple to avoid clogged pores

2- create a low pH and oxygen rich environment to fight bacterial infection

3- use Vitamin A derivative, benzoyl peroxide or mandelic acid to empty the pore!

  • Cleanse in the evening then use a toner to lower the pH; in the morning only tone.
  • Avoid cleansers with SULFATES that make your skin feel "squeaky clean".
  • Your moisturizer should contain anti-inflammatory ingredients to prevent pigmentation and scars.
  • Use the appropriate serum to force the COMEDONE out to the surface
    • Spot treat: if your pimple is red hard and painful but not infected use Bioderma Cicabio drying lotion, if it is infected use Hexomedine transcutanee anti bacterial agent.

    First Grade of Acne: predominantly white heads and black heads. Occasional inflammatory lesions

    You want to gradually induce peeling without irritating or drying your skin. (you will receive an application chart with your products, every other week you move up in intensity)
     Each week there should be fewer lesions. At the point you clear up, stay on the regimen for 6 months then reverse the regimen.
    Spa treatments: alternate Mandelic Peels and Facials with Extractions every other week, then monthly. To     treat pigmentation and scarring dermabrasion + Cicabio healing cream or micro-needling can help.

    Dry or sensitive

    AM Bioderma Sensibio Cleansing water+ Face Reality Mandelic serum 5% + Face Reality clearderma cream + Mineral sunscreen 3-4 times per day (BRUSHONBLOCK)
    PM

     Face Reality gentle cleanser + Face reality calming toner + Benzoyl peroxide gel 2.5% + Face reality Hydrabalance gel (see chart for Acne BP application)

    OR AUREOCYDE

    Combination or oily

    AM Bioderma Sebium Cleansing water+ Face Reality Mandelic serum 5% + Face Reality hydrabalance or + Mineral sunscreen 3-4 times per day (BRUSHONBLOCK)
    PM Face Reality gentle cleanser + Face reality calming toner +  Benzoyl peroxide gel  5% + Face reality Hydrabalance gel (see chart for Acne BP application)

     Back and chest

    AM or PM

    Do not take long showers and wash your back with a loofah or Face reality Mandelic cleanser
    Apply Benzoyl peroxide gel  11% at night followed by Hydrabalance

    If you have pigmentation apply Mandelic serum 11% in the morning
    Second Grade of Acne: maturation arrest. Clear from a distance but bumpy with a lot of white heads

    You want to produce extensive peeling over a long period of time in order to open up all the white heads.
    Remember this is the toughest grade, you will need to really push up your treatment and be patient.
    Spa treatments: Mandelic peels every other week until the skin is ready for a Facial with extractions, then alternate peels and facials.

    To treat pigmentation and scarring dermabrasion + Cicabio healing cream or micro-needling can help.

    Dry or sensitive

    AM Bioderma Sensibio Cleansing water+ bioderma sensibio light + Mineral sunscreen 3-4 times per day (BRUSHONBLOCK)
    PM Bioderma sensibio cleansing gel+ Bioderma sensibio toner + A313 retinol cream  every other day for 2 week, then daily for 3 weeks, then twice daily for 2 weeks

    Combination or oily

    AM Bioderma Sebium Cleansing water+ Sebium hydra + Mineral sunscreen 3-4 times per day (BRUSHONBLOCK)
    PM Bioderma Sensibio cleansing gel + Bioderma Sensibio toner + A313 every other day for 2 week, then daily for 3 weeks, then twice daily

     Back and chest

    AM or PM Do not take long showers and wash your back with a loofah or Face Reality Mandelic cleanser follow with Ducray Ikeriane
    Apply A313 every other night for two weeks, then twice a night

     

    Third Grade of Acne: most typical. Mix of white heads & black heads 7-10 papules at one time

    You want to gradually induce peeling and keep on peeling without irritating your skin.
    You should be clearing within 8 to 12 weeks.

    We will build a personalized home regimen, give us a call to schedule an online consultation.

    Spa treatments: alternate Mandelic Peels and Facials with Extractions every other week, then monthly. To treat pigmentation and scarring dermabrasion + Cicabio healing cream or micro-needling can help.
     

    Dry or sensitive

    AM Bioderma Sebium Cleansing water+ Face reality Mandelic Serum + Face reality Clear derma+ Mineral sunscreen 3-4 times per day (BRUSHONBLOCK)
    PM

    Face reality gentle cleanser +Face reality calming Toner +  Face reality Benzoyl peroxide gel  2.5% + Face reality Hydrabalance

    Combination or oily

    AM Bioderma Sebium Cleansing water+ Face reality Mandelic Serum + Face reality Hydra balance gel+ Mineral sunscreen 3-4 times per day (BRUSHONBLOCK)
    PM

    Face reality gentle cleanser +Face reality calming Toner +  Face reality Acne Benzoyl peroxide gel  5% + Face Reality Hydrabalance

     Back and chest

    AM Do not take long showers and wash your back with a loofah or Face Reality Mandelic cleanser follow with Ducray Ikeriane
    Apply Face reality Acne Benzoyl peroxide gel  10% every other night for two weeks, then twice a night

     

    Fourth Grade of Acne: cystic. Like III with nodules and painful cysts

    You want to gradually induce peeling without irritating your skin.
    You need to stop the infection.

    It is very important to control inflammation as it results in pigmentation and scarring.

    Ice the skin as it is the cheapest way to reduce inflammation
    Benzoyl Peroxide Gel has a bleaching action so use white linens and towels.

    Spa treatments: alternate Mandelic Peels and Facials with Extractions every other week, then monthly. To treat pigmentation and scarring dermabrasion + Cicabio healing cream or micro-needling can help.

    Dry or sensitive

    AM Bioderma Sebium Cleansing water+ Face reality Mandelic Serum + Face reality Clear derma cream + Mineral sunscreen 3-4 times per day (BRUSHONBLOCK)
    PM Face reality gentle cleanser +Face reality calming toner +  Face reality Acne  Benzoyl peroxide gel  5%

    Combination or oily

    AM Bioderma Sebium Cleansing water+ Face reality Mandelic Serum + Face reality Moisturizer+ Mineral sunscreen 3-4 times per day (BRUSHONBLOCK)
    PM Face reality cleanser +Face reality Toner +  Face reality Acne Benzoyl peroxide gel  5% + Face Reality Hydrabalance

     Back and chest

    AM Do not take long showers and wash your back with a loofah or Face Reality Exfoliating Cleanser.
    10% Benzoyl Peroxide Gel daily for two weeks, then twice a day